Menumental

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When I call to make a 7:30 p.m. reservation, I am told our table is booked at 5:30 p.m. and again at 9:30 p.m., so we have precisely two hours to dine. Turning the tables three times on a Wednesday night? I am impressed.

But when we arrive at Cowbell 20 minutes early, we don't have to wait for our table because the restaurant is almost empty. The imaginary 5:30 p.m. booking shouldn't come as a surprise since people who eat dinner at 5:30 p.m. generally do so in nursing homes.

I hate to start this review on a negative note because after the initial deceit (an attempt to ensure we're punctual?), we have an amazing experience at Cowbell.

While other chefs try to outdo each other with foams, powders and other molecular tomfoolery, Mark Cutrara manages to be old school and original at the same time.

After honing his chops (both literally and figuratively) at The Healthy Butcher, Cutrara opened Cowbell with the goal of building his menus around whole animals purchased directly from ethically minded farmers rather than pre-portioned steaks and filets from a wholesale butcher. It requires patience, creativity and a skilled hand at charcuterie.

The resulting restaurant is the love child of a French bistro and an English chophouse.

Tonight, Cutrara's charcuterie platter features elk salami flavoured with cocoa powder, garlicky pork sausage zinged with black peppercorns, prosciutto and pancetta, all cured in-house. God is in the accoutrements, which include pickled carrots, green tomato relish, poached oyster mushrooms and grainy mustard.

On the lighter side is a pate-like mousseline of trout served with poached spring onions and a verdant emulsion of tarragon and lemon.

While there is both a vegetarian and fish option, main courses are decidedly carnivorous, many featuring multiple cuts of the same animal. Two juicy, smoky Berkshire pork sausages are nestled in a ragout of pork and beans that could only be described as baked beans from heaven. Completing the nose-to-tail experience is a slice of braised tongue and "seared face" - think crispy pork belly.

Everspring Farms' duck breast is perfectly cooked - crackling skin, rosy interior - and paired with a sweet potato terrine and chewy oyster mushrooms. Stealing the show is a succulent confit heart and clove-scented sauce made from the liver. It's plates like this that should convert more than a few offal naysayers.

The wine list caters to patriotic oenophiles with a focus on lesser-known Niagara producers such as 13th Street, Calamus Estate and Kacaba.

For dessert, the first strawberries of the season are celebrated with buttery almond financiers standing in for shortcakes and a supporting cast of vanilla ice cream and almond creme anglaise.

As we settle up the bill, we overhear the next table rave about their meal, yet complain about the fictional triple seating. It's too bad the reservationist is not as honest as Cutrara's cooking.

Cowbell

1564 Queen St. W. (west of Lansdowne Avenue)

416-849-1095

www.cowbellrestaurant.ca

Dinner for two with wine, tax and tip: $150