While we wait patiently for farmers markets to open with a spring bounty of fiddleheads, ramps, radishes and asparagus, it is still possible to eat local and celebrate spring with hothouse cucumbers.
Crisp, juicy and refreshing, the English cucumber is the perfect antidote to the rich, heavy eating of winter. And whether it's an Indian raita or a classic Greek horiatiki, the cucumber is the king of salads.
Here are two of my favourite cucumber salads. The first is Scandinavian in spirit and makes a great first course. If you omit the mackerel, you could serve it as a side dish with fish.
The second salad is from Thailand and is fantastic with grilled seafood. Dried shrimp are an optional garnish, but they really add a certain "je ne sais quoi" to the dish.
Cucumber salad with smoked mackerel and dill
Yield: 4 servings
1 large English cucumber
1 scallion, green part only, thinly sliced on a bias
2 tbsp capers, rinsed
1/4 cup chopped dill
2 tbsp chopped Italian parsley
2 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp sugar
1 tbsp white wine vinegar
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 lb smoked mackerel, skin and bones removed, broken into chunks
Cut the cucumber in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds with a teaspoon. Slice the cucumbers on a bias 1/4-inch thick. Pat the cucumber dry with paper towel and place in a mixing bowl with the scallion, capers and herbs. Cover and refrigerate until you are ready to serve.
In a small bowl, whisk together the mustard, sugar and vinegar. Slowly whisk in the oil to form an emulsified dressing. Pour the dressing over the salad, season with salt and pepper and mix well. Gently fold in the smoked fish and serve immediately.
Thai cucumber and green mango salad
Yield: 4 servings
1 large English cucumber
1 large unripe mango, peeled, thinly sliced
2 small shallots, thinly sliced
1/2 cup cilantro leaves
1/4 cup mint leaves
1 clove garlic, minced
2 tsp Sriracha chili sauce or other Asian chili sauce
1 tsp sugar
3 tbsp lime juice
2 tbsp fish sauce
2 tbsp roasted peanuts, roughly chopped
2 tbsp dried shrimp, ground to a floss in a spice grinder (optional)
salt
Cut the cucumber in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds with a teaspoon. Thinly slice the cucumbers on a sharp bias. Pat the cucumber dry with paper towel and place in a mixing bowl with the mango, shallots and herbs. Cover and refrigerate until you are ready to serve.
In a small bowl, whisk together the garlic, chili sauce, sugar, lime juice and fish sauce. Pour the dressing over the salad and mix well. Taste and season with salt if necessary. Place the salad on a serving platter or in individual bowls and sprinkle with peanuts and shrimp. Serve.