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This leap year, long winter and early daylight savings have really done a number on my head. When I looked at my calendar and Easter sprung out at me, I had to quickly come up with a dish that straddles the seasons and sticks to the holiday theme.

This Moroccan lamb tagine is perfect. Serving lamb at Easter is a centuries-old tradition, but with snow still on the ground, braised shanks warm the toes better than a crown roast. The verdant peas remind us that spring is around the corner, and mint is a natural with lamb.

I've adapted this recipe from Casa Moro by Sam and Sam Clark (Ebury Press 2004), a brilliant cookbook that celebrates the cooking of Spain and the Muslim Mediterranean. Since this recipe does not require browning the meat, it's light for a braised dish - perfect for a chilly Canadian spring. It's also less messy and time consuming.

If you're making it for a crowd, the lamb can be braised in a foil-covered roasting pan in a 325 F oven. Once the lamb is done, transfer the sauce to a pot to degrease and reduce.

The dish can be made a few days in advance, but only add the peas and mint right before serving. I would serve it with plain couscous, but mashed potatoes, rice or soft polenta would also work well.

To give the lamb a flavour boost at the end, sprinkle the shanks with a pinch of sexy sea salt such as Maldon or fleur de sel.

Lamb shank tagine with peas and mint

Yield: 4 servings

3 tbsp olive oil

2 medium onions, chopped

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

2 tsp cumin

1 tsp paprika

1/2 tsp cinnamon

1/4 tsp cayenne

large pinch saffron

1 cup chopped canned tomatoes

4 lamb shanks

4 cups water or low-sodium chicken stock

8 oz frozen peas, thawed

1/4 cup chopped mint

salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a large pot or saucepan that will hold the shanks in one layer, heat the oil over a medium-high heat.

Add the onion and cook until soft, about five minutes. Add the garlic and spices and cook for another few minutes.

Add the tomatoes and cook for a few minutes more. Now add the shanks, season with salt and pepper and coat in the onion mixture. Add the water or stock and bring to a boil. Cover and reduce to a gentle simmer. Simmer the shanks, turning occasionally, until they are fork tender, about 2 1/2 hours.

Carefully remove the shanks with tongs.

Simmer the braising liquid, skimming any fat with a ladle - there should be quite a bit. Reduce the sauce until it tastes delicious. Return the shanks to the pot along with the peas. Simmer until the peas are tender and the lamb is hot, about five minutes. Stir in the mint and serve.