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I've always resisted reviewing Le Paradis. As one of Toronto's busiest restaurants, it certainly doesn't need a plug. Secondly, my judgement might be biased by the fact that it has been a Vellend family favourite for almost 20 years. Though after forty meals spanned over two decades, I can certainly vouch for its consistency.

Tucked away on the north end of Bedford Road, Le Paradis doesn't get much foot traffic. But sandwiched between the Annex, Yorkville and Forest Hill, it has built up a considerable legion of well-heeled fans who pack the place night after night.

Despite the wealthy clientele, Le Paradis offers tremendous value. With most appetizers priced around $7 and mains at $15, two people can have a three-course dinner with a bottle of wine and still come in under $100. Not any easy feat in this city.

When we arrive at 6:30 p.m. on a cold Sunday night, the place is already a madhouse. Even the bar is full with those crazy enough to show up without a reservation. The open kitchen fills the restaurant with mouth-watering aromas, while three seasoned chefs effortlessly keep up with the crush of orders.

The menu changes daily but there are certain standbys such as moules marinieres and steak frites that you can always count on. I start with another Le Paradis classic, gravlax-style marinated salmon, lightly cured and crusted with grainy mustard and dill. Served with baguette toasts and capers, its like smoked salmon without the smoke.

I am shocked when my father forgoes his usual chicken liver p�¢t�© (always good) in favour of a salad of diced beets, mach�© and walnuts topped with brandade, a Provencal mousse of salt cod, cream, olive oil and garlic. The brandade is silky, but it lacks that distinct, I dare say fishy flavour.

Like any bistro with a French accent, mains cater to carnivores. A thick pork chop is brined for 48 hours before being roasted to pink juicy perfection and perched on pan-fried potatoes and Brussels sprouts.

The skin on the duck confit is too flabby, but the succulent meat falls effortlessly off the bone and marries well with a classic brown sauce sweetened with preserved cherries and a splash of kirsch. Buttery kale and mashed potatoes round out this hearty winter dish.

The French-only wine list focuses on value from lesser-known regions, with no bottle over $60. It can be tough to navigate, but that's what your waiter is for.

Desserts can be hit and miss. The daily tart, lemon with a refreshingly sharp curd baked into a delicate butter crust, is a huge hit, but dry profiteroles drowned in bland chocolate sauce is definitely a miss. (For future reference, the coupe ivore and chocolate marquis are usually home runs.)

Le Paradis will never set off any culinary fireworks, but it is consistently good, always fun and impossible to leave without a Gallic grin on your face.

Le Paradis 166 Bedford Rd. (at Davenport Rd.) 416-921-0995 www.leparadis.com *-Dinner for two with wine, tax and tip: $100